Rock’n Roll!

Last week it snowed and hailed in the Rätikon, perfect frictions for Silbergeier, I thought?!?

Not really, bundled up like a Michelin Men, it was not so easy to climb my project. I failed at that attempt because of the rain, I was too scared and hesitant due to the wet conditions.
A few days ago this last Saturday, together with the local legend Günter Habersatter, I was climbing with no hope for an attempt, since the last pitch still looked wet. The plan for the day was to show all the route beta to Günti.
I climbed without pressure, with a free and open mind, laughing when snowflakes started to fall on to the holds, this was great for my psyche. The first 8b pitch felt like a 7a warm up, on the 7c+ flat traverse, my feet were like glued on to the footholds, on the 8a+ my fingers felt like they were frozen on to rock, on the 7a I even tried on a new pair of climbing shoes, then rock’n roll the last 2 pitches, the 8b+ and the terribel 7c+ were also a perfect send.
What can I say? No pressure, no expectations….. the climbing was just awesome and it felt so easy.
For me, this was the perfect climb, my big dream, this will for sure be one of the most beautiful highlights of my little climbing career…




Pour chaque menue une longeur

Bon, des fois, il faut aller manger dans des bons restaurants. Le meilleur qui existe en Suisse, c’est le Sommerfeld, suité dans la vallé du Prättigau. Les gourmants Cédric et Nina vont souvent manger là bas, car ça c’est vraiment un grand plaisir dans leur petite vie! Ils ont juste le problème qu’ils prennent à chaque fois un immense menue et puis ils sont quand-même des grimpeurs…Pour la consicience tranquille pendans cette extase de bouffe et du bon vin, ils se disent à chaque fois qu’il allait faire des grands perfes le lendemain pour faire partir tout ça.
La semaine passée c’était ce casl. Ils ont de nouveau mangé un 6 menue et 6 c’était un chiffre parfait:
Amuse bouche pour le chemin d’acces, entrée pour un 8b très physique, poission pour une 7c+ traversé, viande bien rouge pour un 8a+ sur téchnique et un 7a avec deux spits, dessert pour un 8b+ sur mini croutes et café plus prâlinés fait maison pour un dernier 7c+/8a bien bloque.
Voilà, pour faire Silbergeier il faut juste être gourmand et avoir la bonne météo! Bravo à Cédric pour cette belle performance, ç’était un énorme plaisir de l’assurer dedans et de le chouchouter avec tout ce que j’ai pu, pour qu’il puisse torcher cette magnifique ligne!


Aeschbacher vom 16. Juni 2011. Nina mal anders…;-)
Rätikon
Aeschbacher
Für alle schweizerdeutschsprechenden Leute: Donnerstag 16. Juni um 22. 20 auf SF1…
Laufzeit: 57′ · VPS: 22:20

(Copyright SRF/Merly Knörle)
Kurt Aeschbachers Gäste sind voller Passion: Der 94-jährige Bankier Hans Vontobel hat sich ein Leben lang vor allem für seine Mitmenschen interessiert. Das Bezwingen steiler Felswände ist das Lebenselixier der Sportkletterin Nina Caprez. Sven Broder hat ein Buch geschrieben, wie man Vater wird und trotzdem Mann bleibt. Und ein Kreuzbandriss hält den talentierten Nati- und FCB-Spieler Valentin Stocker vom geliebten Fussball fern.
Hans Vontobel
ist ein Bankier alter Schule, wie es ihn fast nicht mehr gibt. Über Jahrzehnte leitete er die Geschicke der Bank Vontobel. Für ihn ist der Mensch das Mass aller Dinge – und nicht der kurzfristige Profit. Nach seiner Pensionierung hat er verschiedene Stiftungen gegründet, die dem Wohl der Menschen dienen, darunter die Stiftung Kreatives Alter, die Preise vergibt für herausragende Werke pensionierter Menschen.
Nina Caprez
ist in Küblis im Bündner Prättigau aufgewachsen und klettert seit ihrem 13. Lebensjahr fürs Leben gern. Die 1986 Geborene gehört mittlerweile zu den weltbesten alpinen Sportkletterern. Sie bezwang unter anderen eine steile Felsformation in Südfrankreich, die vor ihr erst drei Männer geschafft hatten. Seit Kurzem lebt sie im französischen Grenoble, wo sie das ganze Jahr hindurch optimale Kletterbedingungen hat.
Sven Broder
ist Redaktor und Kolumnist bei der Zeitschrift Beobachter. Der zweifache Vater hat einen informativen und humorvollen Ratgeber geschrieben, der helfen soll, die Leiden und Leidenschaften junger Väter zu lindern: «Papa steht seinen Mann – von der Kunst, Vater zu sein und Mannsbild zu bleiben». Broder gewährt darin Einblicke in das Leben eines modernen Vaters und erzählt mit einem Augenzwinkern vom Balanceakt zwischen Partnerschaft und Kindererziehung.
Valentin Stocker
wurde 2008 in die Schweizer Fussballnationalmannschaft aufgenommen und schoss bereits im ersten Spiel ein Tor gegen Zypern. Der junge Luzerner mit Jahrgang 1989 liebt das Fussballspielen über alles und musste sich diesen Frühling damit abfinden, nicht aktiv dabei gewesen zu sein, als sein Team, der FC Basel, am 25. Mai 2011 erneut Schweizermeister wurde.
Dream lines…
There are some lines in the world, where the path of a passionate climber has to go through. One of them can be found in my favourite climbing place, in the gorges of Verdon.

‘Tom et je ris’ is a pure endurance route (8b+) and simply a must for a passionate climber! I was sharing this little adventure with my good friend Mike Fuselier. You can’t imagine the mission it was to find the line..! After hours of errantry we finally found the belay of the route, but the colonettes were wet from the heavy rain 4 days ago. What a shame! Well, ten days later, everything was dry and we were so excited when we were standing once again on the top of the route . Mike was checking out the moves on the abseil down and sent it right after that.

I did a proper work out of the route and ten minutes later I did a go. About one hour later with the forerarms completly pumped, I reached the top. Thanks to Mike for the hours of joking and laughing and to Fred Labreveux for the nice pictures.


Three days after the Verdon trip, my boyfriend Cédric and me were already on the ferry to Corsika to retry ‘Délicatessen’. This was our second journey to the col of Bavella because of the rain during our first stay three weeks ago….

The first day was really frustrating. Of course, there was no more chalk on the wall and also it was so hard to get used again to climb on this flat and technical wall. The route had even turned harder since Cédric had broken a little hold on the crux on our first trip. After checking out and falling down plenty of times on the crux section, Cédric could finally climb the first 8b with quite some luck!;-) He did the next two pitches, 7c+ and 7c, directly but on the flat 8a pitch in the end, he had to try three times before sending it. I was climbing in top rope and I can tell you that I had no chance to climb all the sections. I was really happy for Cédric but also rather demoralized for the next day…
But after a good meal and a night full of sleep, the confidance was back and after three trys in the 8b, I found the right balance for this slab and could send this delicated pitch. Arriving at the first belay, I could feel the adrenaline throuhout my body. With this bunch of energy I felt like flying through the next four pitches. Once more on the top, I was recognizing what a privilege it is to have the opportunity to climb such incredible walls!



Many thanks to Arnaud Petit and Stefanie Bodet. Arnaud was bolting this route a couple of years ago and the two of them were renewing all the bolts right before our first arrival in Corsika. I have to admit that ‘Délicatessen’ is the most beautiful and aesthetic line I`ve climbed so far. Its difficulty is mainly given by the very dedicated style rather than by the physical effort. Your feet and legs are suffering much more than your arms!;-) I absolutely recommend this piece of art to everybody!
Thanks also to Stefan Schlumpf who once more was sharing a big adventure with us and for his fantastic work.
Here is the topo, go for it, it’s so fantastic!

Corsika, too much rain!
To be honest, I’m a little bit frustraded…We’ve had such bad weather in Corsika, that it was impossible to climb Délicatessen.
The first day we were climbing in this incredible wall, I was fan!. After an 1,5 hours approach to the wall, the route starts cash with an 8b. An 8b on granit, wow, really technical and not easy at all. The next two pitches, a 7c and 7c+, more physical, crag climbing, but also pure balance…pitch 4, an 8a, was a 4 meter long 7B boulder problem on a terrible flat…
Two days in the route and after that it starts to rain and rain and rain….near the coast side the weather was not so bad, but in the mountains of Bavella, it was always cloudy and raining all the time. After five days we were so sucked and we went home.
Ahhh, I don’t like to leave a project, but I will go back when the weahter is good for this beautiful line!Once more, tbc!;-)
Enjoy the pictures from the first two days and you will see more after the redpoint in a few weeks!;-)

















